Oblivious in Sosua: Part 2

I went for three walks on that first day, just around the block; not far.

As the day got later; the clothing became more provocative. Every woman I see is eyeing me up and down, smiling, and asking how I’m doing. I see Diablo again; that fucker. I walk away. Two black Dominican women cross the street and call at me. Diablo runs over to play pimp. Fuck off Diablo.

The chicas are dark skinned and beautiful. I see police on the corner paying no mind to the skin and narcotics for sale on the street. The companions-for-hire put their arms around me and say, “You ever have two girl suck yo dick same time. Oh Papi… we suck yo dick real good”.

A Spanish speaking tongue calling me ‘Papi’ is hot; not sure why – but it’s certainly a turn on. Something about that native tongue spouting such a suggestive and masculine term in such rudimentary English is on-putting. I posit this is how one advertises their services while employed in such a profession. Pimping is illegal in this country; but hooking is not.

Both their arms around me, one pulls out her right breast while the other grabs at my business. The police don’t care… at all. Diablo is playing goalie.

Fuck this shit, I need to get out of here.

Temptation is tricky. There’s something about that chocolate-cinnamon skin and those skinny hands grabbing my junk while I do everything in my power not to ask how much.

When I finally walk away from these women; I really start to notice all of the others – just like her and her friend.

“How can shit like this exist in the world?” is something I asked myself in Dubai. The answer, quite frankly, is supply and demand. There’s always a supplier for our vices. I’ve been here less than 24 hours and I’ve been offered pussy, pot and cocaine. Our species is one of experience and temporary satisfaction. If I was less spiritually fulfilled than I am; I’d have gladly taken the cocaine. My understanding is that the Dominican Republic is a transit point – so you know the marching powder would be pure. I can smell fresh pot from my hotel; surely it’s not Canadian grade but it can’t be that hard to locate.

Animals; the whole lot of us. Monkeys who’ve figured out how to build things.

Part Three
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Oblivious in America: Part 6

Somewhere in Indiana

Never fuck on the road. Temptation is tricky; but logic trumps the allure.

Solo, I headed back to my hotel and got an early sleep.

Upon hitting the road at the crack of dawn, I find a huge sign reading “TOBACCO” at the next exit. Brilliant – this is why I took this route. I pull over and buy a carton of Marlboros. Legally, I can bring one carton back with me across the border; alongside one bottle of hooch.

I wonder how much more I can manage. Should I risk it?

Hitting the road; I enjoy the scenery and drive until I hit Minnesota. A few minor stops were made along the way – to take pictures and relieve myself.

On this day I used a piss jug. Only once; but I really didn’t want to stop the car again. Keeping control of my small car while engaging in such a vulnerable action provided some mild and unexpected comedic and entertainment value.

I was wearing sweatpants after all; fuck it.

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PART 7

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Oblivious in America: Part 5

Somewhere in Indiana

I pull off the highway; onto an old country road with three modern hotels. There’s a Cracker Barrel too.

The only advertising displayed were three large signs; one posted on the pole in front of each establishment – $59, $49 and $39. There may have only been ten dollar gaps in the price; but the quality was orders of magnitude more varied.

I choose the cheapest room; pay for it; and unpack. There’s a spider in one of the beds and a piss stain on the other. I choose the spider-bed and get in the shower.

Time to eat. I light a cigarette and wander across the old country highway to the Cracker Barrel. I’ve been in one of these before; somewhere along the East Coast as a child – driving to Florida with my parents. In case you’re unfamiliar with this establishment; you enter into a grandiose candy store; filled with branded merchandise and American pride paraphernalia; eventually making your way into the Cracker Barrel restaurant.

A cute yet slightly heavyset waitress seats me. There’s those eyes again.

She brings me a menu and I order a beer. She laughs.

“Honey, you ever been to Cracker Barrel before?”

“No.” I said

“This is a family restaurant; we don’t serve beer here. Where you from, cutie?”

“Canada.”

She proceeds to tell me her whole life story. She’s from Georgia; used to be a long-haul truck driver; moved to Indiana to start over.

“Well there’s a bar up the road, they open at ten.”

“I’d rather a liquor store. What’s the drinking age in Indiana?” I asked her, knowing full-well that I was under-age.

“Twenty-one, how old are you?” she asked.

“Twenty.” I said

“You have a hotel for the night?” she asked suggestively.

“Yeah… the dive across the street.”

“I’m off at ten; I’ll buy you some beer. What’s your room number?”

Part Six

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Oblivious in America: Part 4

Albany, New York

I wake early; it’s imperative to get wakeup calls when you’re travelling.

Always operate using a dual-authentication method of timekeeping. Your primary method of waking up on time must always be the alarm; with your secondary method being the wakeup call. Some hotels have great wakeup call service; others don’t. Most establishments just add you to the computer or switchboard and it’s automated – but this isn’t always foolproof.

Either way; it worked in Albany.

I returned to the same gas station where I’d filled up my tank and made an illicit alcohol purchase; the gas station that employed the cute New Yorker with the fuck-me eyes.

A fat Italian guy, receiving his weekly milk order, rang in my coffee and breakfast sandwich. Friendly enough; but not as friendly as I’m accustomed to in rural Canada. Cultural differences, I guess.

What a beautiful day for a drive; a great day to be alive. Traversing the open road on the ass-end of the spring season with no idea what lies ahead on this beautiful day.

I chain smoke Marlboros and match up with pace-cars so as not to be bait for a state trooper. My strategy is simple – don’t be the first guy in a line of speeding cars; and don’t be the last. If you find a comfortable medium in which you’re the third or fourth car in a series of five or six – chances are the guy in the front or the guy in the back will be the one to submit to the will of state troopers setting up speed-traps between the endless toll booths.

I chose this route to gain access to cheap American cigarettes and booze; though the more toll roads I encounter, the less economical this decision appears to be.

Part Five

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Oblivious in America: Part 3

Albany, New York.

The Mass-Turnpike was insane; these hoards of up-state drivers and New England tourists raced along at 20 miles over the limit. I made it to Albany in no time.

The petrol stations offer only pre-pay. Is gas theft really that much of an issue here? 

Laptop busted; Trip Advisor and Urban Spoon are useless. Fuck food; I need to find a repair shop. What use am I without my keyboard?

I score a seedy hotel beside the gas station. It was large and looked like it may have been something special one day; but that day was many moons before today. A few things are definite;  I need my laptop; beer; and food. Best to tackle these requirements in order.

Driving aimlessly through Albany; I find many things that are new to me. Side-streets full of unkempt lawns; grass growing between side-walk bricks; boarded windows and closed businesses; and I’m being followed by a jet-black Cadillac Escalade with chrome rims and tinted windows.

Your friendly neighbourhood dope-man, no doubt.

Locating a computer repair shop was unsuccessful. Moderately lost and then casually finding my way back to the motel; I want a beer. I walk across the street to the petrol station and see that they have forty-ounce bottles of Heineken in the cooler; beside the soda and orange juice. I grab two and set them on the counter beside the beautiful gas-maiden attending the counter. She smiled and stared at me. She had those fuck-me eyes; but fucking a random isn’t my thing.

She ID’s me.

She sees it’s foreign; and tells me I’m supposed to be twenty-one to buy beer in New York.

I smile and pretend to play dumb. She knows it’s an act. A sly grin and politeness go a long way in convincing a pretty girl to bend the rules for a mysterious foreigner.

She rings me through and bags my beer. I thank her and walk back to my hotel room, forever alone.

Never fuck on the road. Best worst case scenario; you pass on your genetic material and unknowingly exist as a DNA fragment in a bastard child you never knew existed. Worst case scenario; herpes.

I think I’ll pass.

I drop my sleeping pill, topped with Heineken; and forego a meal for some sleep.

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Part Four

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Oblivious in America: Part 2

The border police were nice; though I hadn’t yet tanned from the next five days of travel and neglected to shave.

The first guard looked at my passport; smiled and waved me though. Then his supervisor stopped him and waived me over for a closer inspection. He smiled and asked to see my papers, “Where you headed?”.

ME:   “Edmonton.”

DHS:  “Why are you driving through America?” he asked.

ME:    “Marlboros, sir; and I’d heard it was faster. And here’s the thing, dude; I’ve got about five ham-and-cheese sandwiches with me”

DHS:  “Okay? What do you mean ‘about?’

ME:  “Well; I’m not allowed to bring food am I?”

DHS:  “Don’t worry about the sandwiches,” he hands me my passport, “have a nice day, sir.”

Be polite and everything will be all right. That’s usually what I try to do in those awkward situations with passport-Gestapo.

I’m either a genuinely awkward or a generally ludicrous individual; depending on my mood that day. Neither character trait seems appropriate for dealing with the Gestapo.

I’ve seldom had a problem at the border; they look at the numerous squiggly stamps on my passport and the situation progresses in one of two ways:

  • They wave me through and barely look at it OR
  • They REALLY look at it

I’m of a blend of European ancestry; some Irish, some French, a splash of British; anyone with European ancestry is a blend of numerous other human qualities. I’m not sure which genetic sub-group causes it; but if you stick me in the sun for a few days without a razor; I’ll appear to be from whichever country you choose to believe I’m from.

I go from Irish to Iraqi in about a week. Not that there’s anything wrong with that.

Thankfully I’d been sitting indoors all winter and shaved before I left; let’s see how I look in five days. The drive is 53 hours; spread out amongst twelve hours behind the wheel per day; and if I stick to a perfect schedule I’m looking at 4.2 days to be exact.

It will take about that long to reach Edmonton; but I bet I can do it in four.

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Part Three
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Oblivious in America: Part 1

Three o’clock in the morning; nearing the end of spring.

The car is loaded; the cooler is packed; the fuel has been purchased.

I linger; temporarily embracing this moist evening with the cigarette I had lit while the police were opening their doors to pull over a red truck, beside the church in front of my dad’s house. Why rush out? Surely this is more entertaining than that next five minutes would have been if I was driving through the rest of this old town just a few minutes earlier.

People rip on this microcosm of ours.

But honestly – it’s pretty sweet.

We’ve got it pretty good here; all but for the economy that constantly fucks us brutally in the rectal region and into our souls. If you can’t see that; then you’re missing something.

Travel arrangements were work related, not pleasure; but incredibly pleasurable nonetheless. It’s unfortunate that many of our generation don’t  have the manufacturing jobs that built this part of the world; that they simply don’t exist for us any more.

Many of us have to leave in order to support ourselves and our families. Yeah… I’m sure some people want to leave; but I’d bet many of us would choose to stay; provided we could financially do so.

Not the point… sorry for rambling.

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I turn on the engine of my grey Chevy Cavalier to embark on a solo trek; 2/3 of the way across the continent.

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Part Two

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Oblivious in Dubai: Part 13

Five days later…

I board in Halifax; connect in Toronto; and land after sunset in Dubai.

I work my way through the fantastical arrivals process at the Dubai International Airport. Deplane; head down the escalator; stand on conveyor belt after conveyor belt as old ladies pass by in electric golf carts chaperoned by portly airport employees. Fleeting eye-based interactions with those passing me on the parallel track heading in the opposite direction.

Ads… ads… so many ads.

Posters and billboards and signs, oh my. Miles of rubber track; broken into hundred meter sections; separated by ceramic tile-work. Step off of one belt – click, click, click, click, click – step on to the next. The wheels of my carry-on bag strike the grout between the tiles in an almost musical fashion. The soothing pattern I notice may only be soothing as a result of my exhaustion and jet-lag.

The beer included on the trans-Atlantic flight probably contributed to my acknowledgement of this beautiful, rhythmic pattern.

Ascend an escalator to customs; passport stamped; proceed to baggage.

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Waiting for our bags to hit the pick-up conveyor; I browse the duty-free liquor store. So much sauce; so much bank; so much confiscation if I tried to take it on base.

Not that I had any desire to; I wanted to take it back to Canada with me – but I was heading in the opposite direction.

Make a mental note to stop here on my next flight home.

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Grab my bags then work my way through the hoards of people leaving the airport. We funnel into an underground taxi-queue; shuffling past the booths of car-rental companies.

While standing in line, I see a dwarf who appears to be from India or Bangladesh. A few feet away are a young child of three or four and his father. The boy is sitting in the basket of the luggage cart while laughing hysterically and pointing at the vertically challenged man who did him no harm.

The father laughs along with the child; making no effort to stop the unwarranted abuse.

The lack of politically correct behavior disturbed me.

I get into my cab; hand the driver the business card from the hotel I was at only a week before; and we depart. He calls his dispatcher for directions.

We arrive and I greet the doorman. Salazar comes outside and raises both arms. “Salazar!” I yell.

Salazar smiles and waves me over as he approaches me. We shake hands; each asking how the other is; and he shows me to my room.

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Enter Oblivious in Dubai Part One or move on to Oblivious In Dubai Part Fourteen

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Oblivious in Dubai: Part 12

Sitting at the gate; evening sun shining through the glass window overlooking the tarmac; awaiting my final flight home.

Overpriced shops abound. I noticed some pashmina scarves hanging on a display rack; $18 a piece. Just a few short days ago I bought ten of these very same scarves from an Afghan man at the Bazaar for twenty American dollars; a few hundred miles from the goats that the fibre was sourced from. I chuckle and shake my head at international commerce.

Sitting in my seat; awaiting the call to board; I meet two white American couples. One couple with two adopted Chinese daughters around three years old.

The two wives and one of the husbands amuse the children. I ask the second man if he wants to see some pictures.

I start off with photos that I’d taken of my life on the base; my tent, my room, my friends.

Then I show him a video, filmed from a Humvee, of an IED exploding between two vehicles in a convoy.

He gasps; visibly shaken.

That’s what we ask our guys to walk into.” I say.

I show him another video; filmed by terrorists. This video is of a masked man firing a mortar while shouting the takbir. He drops a dud into the mortar tube and blows himself up by accident.

I laugh and tell the man, “It’s funny to watch those bastards fuck up.”
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We board; take off; and make our way home in the middle of the night.

A kind friend; whom I’ve known for many years; picks me up at the airport and takes me back to her house so that I can surprise my family the next day.

We smoke some grass and I start going through my bags. I give her and her room mate first grab at the pashminas.

They retire to bed; I crash on the couch without much hesitation.
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I wake up the next morning and it’s a beautiful day. Both my friends are at work; so I take a long shower then step outside for a cigarette. Barefoot I sit on the stoop; passionately puffing my Marlboro and letting the fresh grass work it’s way between my toes and under my feet.

I never knew one could miss grass so much.

I’m amazed at the cars racing past. They’re not going all that fast; but I was used to a 15 km/h speed limit. Speed is relative.

Later that day, my friend picks me up and we head into the community to pick up her room mate from the eye doctors office she worked at. As I wait in the car; I get a hankering for caffeine, so I head to the Tim Hortons on the other side of the parking lot.

Much to my synergistic amazement, surprise and joy; a friend I’d grown up with worked at the coffee shop. A friend that I had no idea lived in the area (two hours from where we grew up) and whom I had no idea worked at any coffee shop, let alone this one.

We were both visibly startled but it was the good kind of startled. The kind of startled that one experiences when one of the first people they encounter upon return from a war is an old childhood friend.

I order my sandwich, bagel and coffee; and she takes her break so we can sit out back of the coffee shop and talk.

Very full circle.

Meanwhile; my two other friends were searching the parking lot for me. The plan was to drive me two hours to our home town to surprise my family. I happened upon another old friend and got caught up in old times.

It’s chance encounters like this that make me believe in some sort of divine invisible hand directing some of what we experience. How was it that this old friend happened to work in the same shopping plaza as a completely unrelated old friend; in a city lying two hours from our home town? How was it that she happened to have the morning shift that day? How was it that I chose to go to that coffee shop instead of the many we’d passed on the way to where we were; or the many we’d pass on our journey home? Too many coincidences to be anything but divinely inspired.

If it was coincidence; how many times do we casually enter the radius of someone we once knew and have no idea? 

Part Thirteen

Oblivious in Dubai: Part 11

JFK Airport; New York, New York.

The delays in Dubai caused me to miss my connecting flight. The kind old man in Dubai who changed my flights warned me that this was a possibility.

We land; de-plane, and start going through customs. There are hundreds of people in front of me; many families, many children; all brown.

This is what I worried about; I didn’t want to believe that racial profiling exists. Unfortunately it does; and at this particular airport; it was in full force. Hundreds of non-caucasian people lined up ahead of me.

At customs; there were three lanes starting on the right; US Citizens; Diplomats; Non-US Citizens. There were almost no Americans on the flight; nor diplomats. While travelling; I always wore my NATO badge and passport around my neck. The Department of Homeland Security agents started at the front of the line and began working their way back. I watched them checking the identification and bags of children and families. It didn’t appear friendly; at all.

One of the men makes his way to me. “What’s that?” he says as he grabs my badge. He reads it.

“Where you coming from son?” he asked.

“Kandahar, sir.”

“How long?” he asked.

“Three months so far, first trip home.”

“Where you headed?” he asked.

Halifax, my flight’s in about 30 minutes.

“Go there, someone should be there in moment. Tell her you’re connecting to Halifax and she’ll show you where to go. You’d better hurry.” he pointed to the Diplomat queue, which was empty.

I go over; she doesn’t even look at my passport. He must have called someone to meet me there. She knew exactly where I was headed and who I was.

“Go down there, quickly.” she points, “Take a left and check your bags. You’re going to have to get on the airport subway.” she says. “When you check your bags; ask for directions.”

I thank her and start running.

Turns out that travelling through JFK Airport while on leave from a theatre-of-war is a pretty smooth experience; despite the racial profiling I’d witnessed.
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Lost on the airport-train; I missed my flight. Two flights missed in two days; I’m quite good at this.

I get to the gate and have to go through security again after slipping outside for a cigarette. There are uniformed US soldiers; armed to the teeth; standing by some of the exits.

Little extreme, no?

I’ve got hours laid over; to sit and wait in this airport. This trip home was only for a week; really only five days.

I search for a power outlet to plug in my laptop. I find one beside a series of elevators; no benches or seats in site. I set up camp with my back against the wall and my legs across the floor; beside the electrical outlet.

Can’t get on Wi-Fi; pain in the ass.

I give up, get up; and walk through security for one last time in search of food.

Coffee; Sausage ‘n’ Egger, hash browns. A feast fit for champions and scholars.

Part Twelve

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